Super Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka’s naturally beautiful landscape provides the perfect backdrop for everything from white water rafting and hiking to swimming in the clear blue sea, says Helene Dancer

Mid-buttock clench, I knew this was an adventure I wouldn’t forget in a hurry. As we bumped down this particular rapid on the Kelani river in Sri Lanka, our screams met the smiles of locals washing their brightly coloured saris at the river’s edge, but failed to impress the Jurassic Park-style water monitor lizards perched on the river bank. They stayed stock-still as we jumped out of the boat and floated down a calm patch of water, lying on our backs and looking up at the blue sky.
Sri Lanka’s a fascinating mix of natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. You can explore ancient Buddhist temples, visit an elephant orphanage, relax with a top-quality brew in the tea plantations, or don a life jacket and do some white water rafting.
Navigating your way around the island isn’t hard – you can travel independently or organise a guide. We did the latter and our man Jude took great pleasure in making sure we saw as much of his country as possible. We were particularly interested in outdoor activities and his eyes shone as he confirmed our 5am wake-up call for our hike through the Horton Plains National Park, one of the world’s best eco-tourism spots, near the city of Nuwara Eliya. ‘You have to see the sunrise,’ he told us. ‘You’ll see colours you’ve never seen before.’
He was right. The pink sky, much like the colour of the ubiquitous rhododendrons, slowly lightened to reveal rolling grassy plains and forests that felt much more European than the jungle vegetation at the lower altitudes. We trekked up to marvel at a sheer drop called the World’s End, and to the impressive Baker’s Falls. Adam’s Peak glistened in the distance; a climb Jude told us was gruelling but well worth it.
We had another dawn adventure when climbing the Sigiriya rock fortress in the central Matale district. This ancient castle is one of Sri Lanka’s seven world heritage sites, and was built by King Kasyapa during the fifth century. To see the ruins, you need to climb right to the top. It takes about two hours and it’s well worth it. On the way up, the views are magnificent and you’ll pass ancient frescoes of the king’s concubines. At the top, after passing through the Lion Gate and navigating a steep metal staircase fixed into the side of the sheer granite rock face that sits 370 metres high, you’ll see the king’s throne, carved into the rock overlooking his swimming pool and its waterslides, and the area where his concubines danced for his entertainment. This king had it made.
The Dambulla caves, further north towards the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa, are less of a climb but also a real cultural treat. These caves are another world heritage site and house beautifully hewn statues of Buddha in different meditation poses, and the scent of the frangipani flower hangs heavy in the still air. Step outside and the sound of the crickets crescendo as you watch the monkeys playing on the hills below.
When it comes to outdoor activities, Sri Lanka has a wealth of opportunities. It’s also the perfect place to de-stress and there’s no better way of unwinding after a day’s adventure than by relaxing on one of the island’s beautiful beaches and swimming in the sea. The Indian Ocean is like a warm bath and there are some great surfing spots in the south near Galle if you still have some energy left. Dig your toes into the fine golden sand while you sip on freshly squeezed fruit juice (the pineapple comes highly recommended) and decide on which delicious curry you fancy trying for dinner. The island is also renowned for its fresh fish. Decisions, decisions…