Indian homecoming

The delights of Kerala in India are given the personal touch at a homestay

The sights, sounds and smells of India hit you like a sucker-punch to your senses. It is a country so diverse, that each area has its own distinct culture, dialect, food, and landscape. The region of Kerala on the south west tip of India boasts sweeping hills, tea bushes, lush forests fluttering with huge butterflies, massive paddy fields and peaceful backwaters filled with all manner of fish.
My first stop was in the highlands of Munnar province, famed for its tea plantations. A trek round the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, which, at 2160m above sea level, is the highest tea plantation in the world, soon got my heart rate going. Here, I witnessed how the nation’s cuppa (and a source of numerous health benefits) comes to our table, from being harvested by hand by an army of pickers, slowly dried, and then processed.
By the end of the day I was exhausted and looking forward to a restful evening. I was staying in my first of three homestays during my trip to Kerala, where you stay with an Indian family in their own home. It allows for a more personal experience, as you get to know your hosts, and get a real feel for how Indian people live. The aptly named Spice Garden, was on a pepper plantation with views of cardamom and cinnamon fields. My room was a basic double, but was clean, with an ensuite bathroom – you pay more for more luxurious rooms. Bed and breakfast is included, but you can also ask your family to provide lunch and dinner as extra. For dinner, I was given a sumptuous feast of eight dishes of different types of rice, curry and vegetables.
Keralan cuisine is characterised by its extensive use of coconut. Keralans use both the milk and flesh in curries, drinks and desserts, the oil for cooking and even for conditioning their hair. Despite being high in saturated fat, the Keralan people claim coconut oil is actually quite healthy, as it’s low in cholesterol and believed to help improve metabolism. Rice is a staple dish in the region, also used to make rice cakes and pancakes known as appam, dosas, and idlis. They’re served with vegetarian curry (yes, even at breakfast!) called sambar. Many Keralans are Hindu so much of the food is vegetarian, and the curries are tasty and healthy. Being a coastal region, there’s also plenty of fresh fish including sardines, mackerel, crabs, and a fried fish dish called karimeen.
Next refuge was at Kottayam, which is a major centre for rubber production. There are hundreds of trees, with the distinctive marks scored into the trunks. My bed that night was in a traditional bungalow, with a stunning marble courtyard that opened to the sky. My hosts, were the Kuruvinakunnels, who were  warm and friendly, and organised for me to visit a Hindu temple, where I was lucky enough to witness a traditional wedding. I also had an Ayurvedic massage. For me, this was India at its most real – no tinkly spa music here. This was Ayurveda with no airs and graces. My masseuse rubbed me down with a traditional mix of oils and spices, leaving me smelling slightly of curry (but not in a bad way!) and supremely relaxed.
My final night was in the coastal backwaters near the town of Alleppey. The area has garnered the accolade of Venice of the East because of its massive network of canals and lakes which you can access via boat. In fact, one of our days was spent cruising smoothly down the backwaters in a houseboat. The room in my homestay looked directly out onto Vembanad Lake, and one of my most enduring images is of a pink and orange sun rising over the lake while the local fishermen set out in their boats.
Staying in a home makes such a difference, as you find out about the daily customs and practices of a real Indian family. Leaving Kerala,I felt I’d had a brief but intense and memorable experience of the true India.

Destination details

• The homestays Hannah visited range from £26-£83 per night for b&b.

• Flights to Cochin in Kerala are available on various airlines including Emirates and Qatar Airways. Prices depend on the date of travel and start from approximately £466 for a return fare including taxes. For more information call Mahindra Homestays on 020 3140 8422, email reservations@mahindrahomestays.com or visit www.mahindrahomestays.com

Words: Hannah Fox