Caribbean Queen

The spice island of Grenada in the West Indies has beautiful beaches, great scuba diving and even an underwater sculpture park…

For most people, plunging 12 metres beneath the surface of the Caribbean Sea strapped up to an oxygen tank will provide equal measures of fear and exhilaration. For me, it was both – and also a little Mills & Boon.
There I was, scuba diving for the first time with a dashing instructor, JP, who clasped my hand as we floated past schools of iridescent fish. JP stared deep into my eyes. ‘Are you OK?’ he signalled. I gave him a thumbs up, the international sign for ‘yes, all good thanks,’ but in diving, it means you want to go back to the surface, so when he started to pull me up towards the distant sunlight, I shook my head and gave him the correct hand signal. I wasn’t ready to leave this underwater safari just yet.
We were exploring a coral reef just off the coast of Carriacou, an island that’s part of the Grenadines. After spotting flying fish in the water while on the boat from nearby Grenada, and enchanted by stories of the natural world beneath the water, I’d decided to give scuba diving a go. And once I’d mastered the art of breathing underwater, equalising my ear pressure and dealing with the odd heart flutter, I was free to bask in this aquatic paradise. We just missed a nurse shark, apparently, but I was too busy looking at the golden eel to see it.
Once out of the water and adjusting back to sea level, my friends and I left our lovely instructor and headed to Paradise Beach for lunch. This strip of white sand and turquoise water is exquisite – just what you see in all the brochures. Under the trees we ate fresh fish and grilled plantain, and sipped on a rum punch.
Grenada and its tiny island neighbours are amazing places to explore. It may be all too tempting to stay within the confines of a comfortable resort but it’s worth making the effort and venture out.
The Seven Sisters waterfalls are one of its natural gems. To get to the waterfalls you take a short hike through the lush rain forest, the distant peak of Mount Saint Catherine gracing the horizon. This is where our guide, Telfor, hiked for his birthday last month – his 70th birthday. With his wiry frame, big smile and jelly shoes, he didn’t look a day over 50. It’s little wonder he’s deemed one of Grenada’s living legends.
After working up a sweat (everyone except Telfor), we rewarded ourselves with a dip in the crystal-clear pools at the falls. If you’re feeling brave, you can also leap off the waterfalls or if not, an enthusiast who calls himself Super Butterfly will impress you with his somersaults and backflips. Lots of healthy active locals here!
Back at the beach and inspired by Super Butterfly’s antics, we decided to be a little more adventurous. There are all sorts of water activities available, we decided to take a sail in a little Hobie Cat. Another popular activity is sea kayaking in a clear-bottomed boat. Not only is it a great workout for the arms, but it’s also the perfect way to admire the coral reefs and explore Grenada’s underwater sculpture park. Created by British artist Jason de Caires Taylor, this collection of human-size figures is a quirky twist to the natural environment. You can get a closer look with a snorkel.
By this time we’d worked up a serious appetite, so we headed to the boutique Maca Bana resort for a cookery lesson and gourmet meal of our own making. The chefs had selected produce from the hotel’s own organic farm and we were to feast on callaloo (a bit like spinach but richer) soup, callaloo cannelloni, snapper and vegetables bursting with flavour.
For cooking fans, these experts will show you a thing or two. Grenada’s dubbed the spice island, so expect liberal sprinkles of nutmeg. In fact, it’s criminal not to leave the island without some spices to take home. Not only will they make cooking more exotic, but they’ll remind you of a place so beautiful that when you leave, it’ll seem like a dream.

• For more information on Grenada, visit www.grenadagrenadines.com. Find more info on the Maca Bana resort at www.macabana.com.

Words: Helene Dancer