Get the all-clear

Not looking forward to baring your skin on the beach because of a pimply back or spotty chest? Here’s how to zap those zits – fast!

Summer can be a nightmare for acne sufferers. Not only do skimpy tops mean exposing spotty backs, chests and shoulders, but the hot, humid weather can make breakouts even worse, as we perspire and our skin becomes oilier.

Rather than being just an adolescent issue, acne is affecting more and more of us well beyond our teenage years. Both men and women are experiencing angry red outbreaks into their late 20s, 30s and beyond, and up to half of all adults between the ages of 20 and 40 are thought to suffer from persistent acne.
Whether you’re a teenager or an adult, acne is more than just a skin disorder. It may not be life threatening, but it can severely knock your confidence. It holds people back socially, in their relationships and their jobs, but often sufferers are too embarrassed to seek help. The Acne Support Group reports some people will do anything to get rid of the disease, including using scissors and bleach on their skin, while others even contemplate suicide.

Fortunately there’s no need to suffer in silence – whether you consult a skin therapist, your GP or pharmacist, there are lots of successful treatments out there.
Acne is a common disease affecting the hair follicles of the skin, and technically can mean anything from a few blackheads right the way through to nodular cysts – those typical nasty red swellings filled with pus.

Pores for thought
All types of acne are the result of the sebaceous (oil-producing) glands inside the follicles producing too much sebum (your skin’s lubricant), while simultaneously there’s an overproduction of skin cells. Dead cells and oil become trapped inside the follicle and bacteria feed on the sebum, causing irritation and redness. In extreme circumstances, the clogged follicle swells up and breaks in the lower layer of skin – the dermis – causing the hard, painful cysts that lead to scarring and pitting.
In theory, breakouts can happen anywhere on the body, but as the face, neck, chest and back have more sebaceous glands than anywhere else, these are the hotspots for eruptions, with acne often seen in the groin too.

Acne usually starts in puberty, when increased levels of the male-type sex hormones androgens, such as testosterone, stimulate the sebaceous glands to increase sebum production.
But acne can appear later in life, even if you were lucky enough not to get it as a teen. This is due to hormonal imbalances such as taking the contraceptive pill, pregnancy, menopause or conditions such as PMS or polycystic ovary syndrome.

It’s not just hormones that can trigger acne. Environmental irritants such as pollution, intense heat and humidity can also exacerbate the problem, as can a reaction to allergens such as cosmetics.
Stress is another big factor, and the ‘boardroom explosion’ – women juggling stressful jobs and family – has contributed to the dramatic increase in adult acne over the past 10 years. When you’re stressed, the adrenal glands produce more hormones including testosterone, and the sebaceous glands are stimulated.
Genetics play a role in all of this too, and how much you’re affected depends on whether acne runs in your family.

Spot the difference
The best treatment depends on how severe your acne is. Many milder cases can be controlled with a good skincare regime. Go for clay-based cleansers that naturally absorb oil rather than alcohol-based products that strip your skin of moisture.

For more extreme acne, antibacterial cleansers and treatments can be effective. Look for products containing benzoyl peroxide, usually applied to individual spots, which dries out sebum, fights bacteria and heals the skin. Another good all-rounder is salicylic acid, a plant acid used for its gentle exfoliating benefits. It gets rid of skin cells that block follicles and is a soothing anti-inflammatory that won’t dehydrate skin.

If acne becomes a persistent problem, your GP can prescribe retinoid creams that contain tretinoin, the acid form of vitamin A, which unblocks pores, clears away excess dead cells and increases cell turnover. Isotretinoin (also called Roaccutane and Accutane) is a strong drug that’s an oral form of vitamin A. It’s prescribed by doctors in severe acne cases, as it directly impacts on hormones. Usually a last resort, it has quite severe side effects, causing extreme dryness of mucous membranes, but it can have great success. Your doctor may also prescribe antibiotics, which kill bacteria and reduce inflammation.

The latest new treatments include therapy using high-intensity blue light, which kills bacteria within the follicle. The treatments are still in the early stages, but are worth keeping an eye on.

See off spots naturally
Many natural treatments can be effective in helping to clear up problem skin

•   Tea tree oil is an antibacterial essential oil that’s well known for its healing properties. It’s often added to skincare products, but never use the essential oil on your skin without diluting it first.*
•   Evening primrose oil is renowned for balancing hormones – take it as a supplement for hormonally induced acne.
•   Lavender oil is an effective anti-inflammatory and antiseptic – dab a little neat onto spots or dilute it.
•   Chamomile, geranium and lavender oils are great stress-busters. Mix a few drops in a carrier oil in an aromatherapy burner.
•   Echinacea is very healing for skin – take it orally or look out for it in creams.
•   Vitamins C, E and zinc can boost your immune system and help your skin repair itself. Take these in supplement form and also eat plenty of foods rich in them such as fruit, vegetables, chicken
and fish.
•   Green tea extract is an antioxidant that’s great for healing the skin – look for it in creams.
•   Aloe vera is good for calming down redness and soothing breakouts. Look for the pure gel and apply it directly to the affected area.

*Always do a patch test before applying treatments on your skin

Busting the myths
There are many old wives’ tales about acne – here’s the real truth:

FALSE – The sun will help clear it up
Doctors used to give this advice to acne patients but in reality it’s one of the worst things you can do. Heat increases sebum production, while UV rays irritate and damage skin.

TRUE – Make-up makes acne worse
It’s true some make-up blocks pores, causing blackheads (comedones). Always look for the term ‘non-comedogenic’ on the label of any make-up or skin cream, as this means it won’t block or irritate your follicles.

FALSE – Chocolate and greasy fried foods lead to acne
The link with diet is actually quite minimal, though eating too many sugary foods could potentially artificially elevate hormone levels, which may lead to increased sebum production.

TRUE – Squeezing spots makes acne worse
It’s tempting but by squeezing a spot, you may break the follicle beneath the skin’s surface, which can cause scarring.

FALSE – Acne means you have dirty skin
Blackheads mightlook like trapped dirt, but this is actually dead skin and sebum oil inside pores. Regular cleansing is important to avoid this build-up, but take care not to overwash or overcleanse your face as you’ll strip your skin of its natural defences and it could make the problem worse.

Expert: Sally Penford
Sally Penfold is education manager of the International Dermal Institute in the UK. With more thsnk 20 years of experience in the beauty industry, she is a leading spokesperson on skincare.
Compiled by: Cheryl Freedman